Conscientious Ethical Fashion E-zine
Conscientious
New Fabrics
What Conscientious considers "New Fabrics" are fabrics that have been developed in the last 10 years or fabrics forgotten (pushed out the market by cotton) that are finding a new market.
These "New Fabrics" are generally derived from diverse and environmentally nourishing crops from tropical climates to cool climates.
All these "New Fabrics" use chemicals in a manufactured process to produce fibres that are then woven (they are not organic). However, they all come from plants that are eco-friendly plants compared to cotton. They add to the planets diversity and have great potential for improvement in the manufacturing process.
Most are manufactured in China and it is good to look for Certification that the company is treating chemicals before releasing them into Chinese river system and also using protective measures to keep the workers safe. If we look for safe high quality products over price from China, we are helping to ensure guide the future of their good companies that deserve to thrive (and telling China we don't want their disposable sweatshop crap).
Conscientious supports crop diversity not just from an environmental point of view but also from an economic point of view- spreading sources around different climates and countries not only will not only ensure constant supplies but also lessen the chance of the monopolies (that have lead to cotton getting cheaper and cheaper, the workers being more abused and crops being more riddled with pesticides).
Conscientious also supports fabric diversity from a creative point of view. Fabric can inspire design.
SOY
In the 1930s Henry Ford had a suit made of Soya Fabric. He believed it was the future of fabric but cotton (probably helped by war time contracts) gained a monopoly and Soya Fabric was pushed aside until manufacturers (in China) began to relook at the fabric recently.
As the US currently considers where it lost its economic way and blames the banking system alone, I also blame the pushing aside of long term innovation in favour of the holding onto inefficient stagnant monopolies.
Innovation built the US economy in the early parts of the 20th Century. For example, the Americans didn't invent the car, but they redesigned it and sold it to the world. However, in the second half of the 20th century they refused to adapt, assuming the world wanted to be a mirror image of their country. They continued making huge, fuel guzzling right-hand drives. The Japanese, Koreans and Europeans make a model for differnt markets that they sell to. The US car market stalled.
The Chinese didn't invent Soya Fabrics but they will develop them and develop their market. But a huge amount of Soya bi-products in the US is feed to factory cattle in the US. What if it went into fabric and the cows ate grass??????
The current crisis is opportunity. Ironically the Ford company is in trouble. Time for creative thinking?
Soybeans are a sustainable crop that can be grown without pesticides. The fabric is absorbent, warm, resistant to bacteria and UV rays, and of course biodegradable. It's easy to care for and doesn't shrink. In fact it could be blended with shrinkable fabrics to make them unshrinkable. China has recently begun mass producing soy yarn; thus, crop is good, fabric is good but at the moment we can't guarantee factory conditions. But it definitely should be considered over cotton and synthetics and with huge future potential.
Like bamboo fabric the beans are melted down and then turned into fibre in the same was a some synthetics, so it uses a lot of chemicals, energy and is not organic.
It is certainly kinder to people and the environment then cotton and is a fabric that can be improved on.
There are some fabulous feeling blends with wool and silk. Try PurePod for an Australian company making a women's lifestyle range in a variety of new blends.
BAMBOO
Bamboo plants requires little water, rarely needs replanting, produces alot of oxygen and helps balance carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, is good for soil and has multiple uses from earthquake proof housing, food and fabric.
The plant is ideal. The processing not so much. There are 2 types.
BAMBOO LINEN which is a weave and uses little energy and almost no chemicals, but it is a difficult and expensive process. I can only find homeware using this fabric at the moment.
The most common form being promoted by various 'eco ' labels is a form of BAMBOO VISCOSE. It uses a lot of energy and chemicals dangerous to the workers and environment if handled carelessly. Despite this, most expert say it leaves less of a footprint than cotton and unlike synthetics is is biodegradable.
The main chemical used in the processing is sodium hydroxide also known as caustic soda. Caustic soda is also commonly used in food production, soap making, manufacturing of bio diesel, production of paper, and is used on nearly all cotton fabrics, including organic cotton, during wet processing. Caustic soda is approved for use on textiles under the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS).
Some other manufacturers are Oeko Tex 100 certified which means that no harmful chemicals were used in the production of their product and that their product is certified to be chemical free. Look also for Organic Bamboo.
The fabric is softer than cotton with a slight sheen, great for basics, t-shirts and underwear.
Thomas Edison had an interest in Bamboo Fibre when inventing the light globe! Read more:
TENCEL/TENSILE
Tencel is a new fibre developed in the US and Europe. It is extracted from wood pulp that is 100% biodegradable and uses nano technology.
It absorbs 50% more moisture than cotton and breaths well. It also has an extremely smooth surface suitable for sensitive skin and can be produced in a variety of fabric aesthetics. The soft touch and natural breath ability of Tencel make it an excellent blend with cotton, merino wool and other natural textiles.
Tencel usually comes from tree farms with sustainable practices and is certified by the international Forest Stewartship Council (www.fsc.org). The closed loop production process recovers 99.5% of the solvents used and the remaining emissions are decomposed in adapted biological purification plants. This process was awarded the "European Award for the Environment" by the European Union.
http://www.indigenousdesigns.com/section/garment/index
BLENDS
Soysilk
Actually a trademark owned by the South West Trading Company. It comes from the Soy protein and is 100& biodegradable. It has some qualities of cashmere. www.soysilk.com
Lenpur & Lyocell
Lenpur & Lyocell are a biodegradable fabric made from tree pulp. Lenpur is from white pine pulp and Lyocell other farmed woods. Lenpur offers a silky light feeling, great dor lingerie. More to come on where, how and if pine pulp has the same issues as paper pulp soon.
Paperwool
Paperwool is a blend of Wool and Rice Paper and has natural antibacterial properties.
Hempcel
Hempcel is a blend of Hemp and Lyocell. It is, of course, biodegradable.
